The Dales House at 414 Alexander Street circa 1890 CVA Photo SGN 490
Showing posts with label History Walks. Show all posts
Showing posts with label History Walks. Show all posts

Monday, June 30, 2014

HANDSOME RESIDENCES OF THE EAST END - SOME STILL STAND



I love it when I get surprises in my e-mail inbox, especially when they are from history researchers who come across something that relates to houses that I am researching or have researched, and especially when they related with Vancouver's East End's history. 

Some years back I received this amazing scan of  page from the October 28, 1905 Vancouver Province from a man named Nelson who over the years has been kind enough to forward me a number of great articles and photos he has come across through the course of his research.


From top to bottom, left to right these houses are are identified as the R. M. Barclay house at 345 Hawks Avenue, the T. A. Smith house on Vernon Drive, the G. F. B. Adams house at 790 East Hastings, the W. J. Miller house at 303 Barnard Street, the A. McNair house at 616 Carl Avenue, D. McCrimmon house at 804 East Cordova, the W. Ells house at the corner of Barnard Street and Carl Avenue, the G. H. Tom house at the corner of Keefer Street and Carl Avenue, and the T. Crawford House at 745 Princess Street.


The original addresses may be a bit confusing to those unfamiliar with the history of East End Vancouver's street names. Barnard Street is now Union Street and was renamed to avoid confusion with Burrard Street in the West End. Carl Avenue is now Princess Avenue, although for a very short time it was also named Oppenheimer Avenue when Oppenheimer Street was renamed East Cordova, and Princess Street, originally Dupont Street is now East Pender. 

Any of you who have come on my East End/Strathcona History Walks know that Dupont Street was the very first street in Vancouver history to be renamed, in 1888, because the people living east of Main didn't want to be associated with the drugs, gambling and prostitution going on in the unit and 100 block of Dupont, which was both Vancouver's first Red Light District and also part of Vancouver's Chinatown. By the way, Union Street, which had already been renamed from Barnard, was renamed Adanac, Canada spelled backwards, between Vernon Drive and Boundary Road in 1930 for almost the very same reason.

Now that I have you cross-eyed and confused, lets return to the houses in the image. Sadly, the Robert M. Barclay house at 345 Hawks Avenue no longer stands. 


Its location would have been on a lot where the Sole Food urban garden is now located on the west side of Hawks just to the east of the Astoria Hotel. The 1905 city directory lists Robert M. Barclay as a shingle saw filer. We know from his April 16th 1903 wedding certificate that Robert McKenzie Barclay was born in New Brunswick, the son of William Barclay and Margaret Ernie. His wife, Elizabeth Ellen Simpson was born in Miramichi, New Brunswick and that her parents were Henry Simpson and Jane Stewart. We also know that the Barclays were Presbyterians and were married at 400 East Cordova Stgreet, which was the Presbyterian Church Manse, by Rev. R. J. MacBeth.

  
T. A. Smith's house on the northeast corner of Vernon Drive and East Georgia, today numbered 1201 East Georgia, still exists.


It is one of the most impressive houses still standing in the eastern part of Strathcona which for the past 40 years or so has become known as Kiwassa.


This neighbourhood within a neighbourhood takes its name from the Kiwassa Girls Club which operated out of the old Firehall No. 5 building visible here in this 1909 picture taken of Admiral Seymour School students in the school grounds. From the 1930s to the late 1940s, the same building was known as the Vernon Drive Junior G-Men's Club where neighbourhood boxing legend Phil Palmer taught neighbourhood kids how to box. T. A. Smith's house is visible on the top right corner of the picture just down the street from the old firehall. Ontario-born Thomas A. Smith was the superintendent of the Small & Buckland Lumber Company.


Carpenter George F. B. Adams house at 790 East Hastings no longer stands... Its location is today the site of Buckshon's Pharmacy. As we can see on his marriage certificate, George Francis Bethel Adams was born in London, England, the son of George Adams and Letitia Mary Lewis. 




His wife Wilhelmina Critch was born in Brigus, Newfoundland, the daughter of Henry Critch and Ellen Mann. George was a Congregationalist and Wilhelmina was a Methodist. The marriage took place on the January 1st, 1900, the first day of the 20th century, and took place in a house at 930 Princess, which would have been on the block of East Pender east of Campbell Avenue were the Stamps Place Housing Project is today.

W. J. Miller's house at 303 Barnard no longer stands as well. Its location would have been on the northeast corner of Union and Gore Avenue. I point out its location on all my East End/Strathcona History Walks.

 
William J. Miller was an Ontario-born carpenter. It would have distressed the Baptist Miller family to know that a number of decades later that their house would be known as the "biggest whore house in the East End". You can read more about how I found out about this house's reputation in a chapter I wrote for John Belshaw's anthology VANCOUVER CONFIDENTIAL by Anvil Press. Needless to say, when Nelson sent me this image from the Vancouver Province, I was thrilled to find included a picture of this house. As far as I know there are no other photos of it in existence, but if you read this and have once, I hope you will contact me. I would love to know what colour it was and know a little more about the house.


 Agnes McNair's house at 616 Carl Avenue, now Princess Avenue, still stands and has been recently beautifully restored and renovated. This house was one of 9 historic houses on the 600 block of Princess Avenue that I did an in-depth research project for early on in my house history research career. The house was built in 1902 for Quebec-born widow of Archibald McNair, Agnes. Agnes and her shipper son Austin and schoolteacher daughter Muriel lived in the house for a number of years. 


The original single family home nature of East Cordova, originally Oppenheimer Street has been largely obliterated. There are some houses on the north side of the 300 block, four more on the 500 block, and then an almost intact enclave of late 1800s and early 1900s houses on the 600 block of East Cordova. Ontario-born Kelly Douglas & Company clerk Donald McCrimmon's house at 804 East Cordova has been replaced by warehouses. At the time of the 1911 census the house was still home to Donald, his wife Jane, daughters May and Maud, and Jane's parents Xavier and Flora Arseneau.


W. Ells house at 750 Princess Avenue still stands and has been beautifully restored. This house was built in 1905 by St. John, New Brunswick-born grocer William Ward Ells. Ells married his English-born bride Rose Lily Sheppard on January 1, 1906 in his newly built house. 


The Ells family moved to 700 Jackson Avenue on the SE corner of Jackson and Harris (East Georgia). William Ward Ells later became the manager of the Woodward’s Grocery Department. 


There seems to be some bootlegging history associated with this address...I came across this newsclipping on the Vancouver Police Museum website... unfortunately, there is no date and no information about which newspaper it came from... Detective Donald A. Sinclair lived for a time at my old house at 1036 Odlum Drive in Vancouver's Grandiew neighbourhood where my interest in house history research began.

Strathcona Elementary School's principal Gregory Tom's house at 602 Keefer (also found in the directory as 602 Princess) still stands. 


The house is oriented so that Principal Tom could easily observe the goings on at Strathcona School from both his front porch and his upstairs window. 

Principal G. H. Tom with students in front of Strathcona School June 10, 1903 CVA Sch P51

This beautiful Queen Anne revival house, mentioned in Wayson Choy's novels as the Chomyzack house, is a popular attraction on my East End History Walks.

The last of the nine houses included in the Province Article not only stands, but has been recently renovated and is part of a new strata project called Crawford Row that includes a new rowhouse facing Hawks Avenue that replaces a historic house that once stood there. 

This house, now numbered 799 East Pender, was for most of its history known as 795 East Pender. On October 30, 1902 a man named Thomas Crawford applied for water service for a house he was building on Lots 21 and 22 of Block 67 of District Lot 181. Six days earlier, on October 24, 1902 builder D. McDonald applied for a building permit for the frame dwelling with an estimated building cost of $1,400.00 on behalf of Thomas Crawford. Thomas Crawford is listed on the application as owner and architect. The building permit application also indicates that the originally planned orientation of the house may have been towards Hawks Avenue as Hawks Avenue, and not Princess (East Pender) Street was mentioned in the application. The house was built in 1902 and completed for occupation in 1903, the first year the house at 795 Princess (renamed East Pender in 1907) is mentioned in the city directories. For the years 1903 and 1904, a sawmill employee Thomas Crawford is listed, but from 1905 and 1906 two separate Thomas Crawfords are listed by the directories: the mill hand, and a delivery clerk for the CPR Sheds. 

This second Thomas Crawford, born in Ireland on October 21, 1868, is mentioned in the BC Archives Vital Events records, although sadly much of his past remains a blank. This Thomas Crawford came to Vancouver from Ireland in 1897 where he worked as a clerk and later a checker for the Canadian Pacific Railway. The names of his parents are not listed on his death certificate, although one can assume that the mill hand listed in the directories was probably his father.

The D. Mcdonald mentioned on the building permit application was a prolific builder. A search of the building permit records shows that he built quite a few homes in Strathcona, Mount Pleasant, Grandview/Woodlands and even Kitsilano and the West End in the early 1900s. Although he worked as a building contractor for others, several of the permit applications were for properties McDonald owned himself.

Mill hand Thomas Crawford drops from the Vancouver City Directories in 1907. In October of that same year, Thomas Crawford (then listed as a CPR Shed delivery clerk) built a smaller one-and-a-half storey house on the north half of lots 21 and 22 of Block 67 or District Lot 181—421 Hawks Avenue. In 1908, the year this rental property was completed and first occupied, Crawford moved out of 795 East Pender but lived off and on at 421 Hawks Avenue during World War I.

Thomas Crawford moved around a lot in the 1910s and 1920s. He is listed at 615 East Hastings in 1918, then 768 Hamilton, followed by 613 Hamilton and once again 768 Hamilton in the 1920s. The year the Great Depression hit, Thomas Crawford moved into the Lotus Hotel at Abbott and Pender, just west of Chinatown, then moved to the Abbotsford Hotel at 921 West Pender in 1933 then to the Benge Rooming house at 914 West Pender in 1936. He lived at the Benge until 1949 after which it becomes impossible to trace him with any certainty.

795 East Pender was rental property for most of its existence, and most of its occupants were working class. The last owner to live in the house was Grosvenor Hotel cook Tsan Quen Mah and his wife Wei Lan. They moved out in 1971.

After 1986 the house at 421 Hawks Avenue became vacant and shortly after 1990 it was demolished. At about the same time the house at 795 East Pender was divided into separate suites.
Nelson sent me similar articles relating to handsome homes in Mount Pleasant, Kitsilano, and other Vancouver neighbourhoods. Sometime in the future, I hopeto be able to write articles about the houses shown in those articles.
Thank you Nelson, and all of you who continue to send me articles and links to photos related to my research work. They are all very deeply appreciated.

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If you like these stories about old houses and would be interested in seeing some of the houses from this article first hand, why not come out for a History Walk with me through Vancouver's Old East End. I offer 3 hour walking tours through Strathcona on a number of Saturday mornings in February/March and in August/September when I come back to Vancouver from my current home in Italy. 
  
You can find the latest schedule for my History Walks in the East End and West End here via this link. Private tours for groups of 5 or more are available on certain Sundays during the time that I am back and I can do these in English, Japanese and Italian. My contact information is published on the linked web page. 

In the summer of 2014, the last year I offered these tours throughout the whole year, TripAdvisor rated them 12th of 137 things to do in Vancouver. Even with my much reduced season TripAdvisor currently rates my History Walks 39th of 171 things to do in Vancouver (as of March 2018). 

Monday, April 28, 2014

1150 Haro Street & 502 Alexander - The Things I Learn From The People On My History Walks


Image of 1150 Haro courtesy of Easy Rent Website

As many of you already know, I do a number of things to keep a roof over my head besides researching the history of houses for people. I work part time in sales and customer service at the Gourmet Warehouse at 1340 East Hastings and on Saturday mornings during the summer I give two hour History Walks in four of Vancouver's historic neighbourhoods: The East End (Strathcona), Grandview, The West End, and Mount Pleasant

I didn't get into the walking tour business on my own. I was prodded. Some years back, while I was on the board of Heritage Vancouver Society, the board asked me to do a walking tour of my East End neighbourhood as a fundraiser for them. Though I had lots of information and many fascinating stories on the houses and the people who lived in the neighbourhood through my house history research work, I hesitated at first. Neighbourhood walking tours were already being offered by my neighbour, renowned Vancouver historian and writer John Atkin, and also by the Architectural Institute of BC. Other parts of my neighbourhood were being covered by the people at the Vancouver Police Museum through their Sins of the City tours, while the Jewish Museum and Archives of BC also was offering fascinating tours that covered the rich Jewish history of my East End neighbourhood. I didn't want to step on any toes... 

However, after some thought I decided that the content used in my tours would be information gleaned from my research, and that I would be speaking about the history of the East End from my perspective, using what I knew, focussing on the things that I found interesting. I concluded that my tours would be different than those offered by others and... what the heck. 

Though I had files and files of information on close to 200 houses in the neighbourhood and the people who lived in them, it took hours of agonizing to come up with a route that I thought was interesting and that took the best advantage of the houses I had researched.

Talking about S.P.O.T.A. and Mary Lee Chan's House at 758 Keefer. Photo courtesy of Patrick Gunn, H.V.S.

Long story short, the tour was very successful, and I was left feeling that if a walking tour of the East End could make money for the Heritage Vancouver Society, why shouldn't I be doing tours to help look after me? So I started to do East End tours on summer saturdays. As time went on I developed routes for tours through my old neighbourhoods, the West End and Grandview, as well as one for Mount Pleasant.

No matter how much research and planning you do for a tour, there is always another interesting house, or two, or three that got left out of your original research that demands an explanation. It's okay not to know everything, but of course, seeing these yet unresearched buildings time and time again piques my curiosity and eventually goads me to do the extra research. 

The other day I did a special West End History Walk for members of Brock House Society. In preparation for this group I did some extra research on some houses in the 1300 block of Barclay, the 900 block of Nicola, and some addresses on the 1000 block of Davie Street. It was great to be able to fill in these blanks. But the highlight of that particular tour was to find out some important information on a house in the 1100 block of Haro that I had only done some basic research on before. It always blows me away how amazing some of the information shared by my tour guests is, and how this information enriches my tours.

We were walking from Bute along Haro Street toward Thurlow. This block is today dominated by high and mid-rise apartment blocks, but here and there nestled in the shadows you will find four historic houses. Two of them, 1131 and 1143 Haro, both built in 1906, appear in this circa 1912 City of Vancouver Archives photo. Haro Street is on the extreme right. The brick Victoria Court apartments at the NW corner of Thurlow and Haro still stands. 

Birds eye view of the West End and Downtown Vancouver with Haro Street Houses in foreground ca 1912 M-11-22


Counting carefully down and left from the apartment building, the two 1131 and 1143 Haro are the sixth and seventh houses with the lighter coloured paint. 1143 Haro, has been severly altered, possibly as the result of a fire. Gone are its peaked roof and its second storey bay window. 1131 Haro though still has its unique gable and curved bargeboards.

Photo of 1150 Haro courtesy of VancouverPriceDrop

Across the street from these two remnants stands a true gem, a beautifully restored Victorian, 1150 Haro Street. When I was doing my initial research for my West End tour, the City of Vancouver's VanMap service indicated that this house was built in 1901. 

Interior of 1150 Haro courtesy of Easy Rent website


Taking this information at face value, I did some hasty research as to who lived in the house from 1901 onward. The City directories indicated that a retired dry good merchant named John Roland Stitt lived there. 

John Rowland Stitt's Wedding Certificate from 13 February 1873
 
A quick check of the 1901 census brought up John, his wife Isabelle, and his four daughters, Winnifred, Isabel, Claire Edguarda and Nora. 


The little I researched of John indicated that he was a retired dry goods store manager born in Ontario, and that is what I shared with my group from Brock House. Among that group was a couple who had been on one of my East End tours, Doug and Lisa Smith. Lisa is about to launch an amazing book on the story of Vancouver's Great Fire of June 13, 1886 called Vancouver Is Ashes


I had the great priviledge to be able to see the manuscript before it was sent to the publisher. I can tell you this, that Vancouver Is Ashes is the Vancouver history book that I, and I believe you, have all been waiting for. 

City of Vancouver Archives picture AM1562- 75-54 - Sketch by City Archivist Major James Skitt Matthews


It is an absolutely rivetting account of what happened on that fateful summer Sunday when Vancouver was wiped off the face of the map by a freak stump fire. The first hand accounts of the Great Fire's survivors are so skillfully woven together that you feel you are there. The heat and smoke of the fire seems about to jump from the pages... panic and terror too... almost to the point that you'll feel the urgent need to drop the burning book and run for your life.


BC Archives Image PDP00815 Vancouver's Great Fire by Robert John Banks


Anyway, John R. Stitt, the man who lived at 1150 Haro turned up in Lisa's research for her book. At one point he was manager of the Hastings Mill Store. 


The Hastings Mill Store was the only building that now stands in Vancouver to survive the blaze. Relocated to the north foot of Alma in the 1930s after Vancouver's first industry was finally closed, this amazing pre-Fire relic now operates as the Hastings Mill Museum, and will be the venue for Lisa's book launch on Sunday May 25 at 1pm.

VPL #3644 Hastings Sawmill Store prior to move to Alma in 1929 by Leonard Frank

I was very grateful for this new piece of information. I decided to do a little more in-depth research to see what more I could add in terms of story to my West End walk.

According to some real estate sites I found online it looked like the 1901 date shown on VanMap might be almost a decade late. One of the sites indicated that 1150 Haro might have been built circa 1892. 

I checked the 1897 Fire Insurance map for Vancouver looking for a house built on Lot 6 of Block 20 of District Lot 185 in the West End. Sure enough, there was already a house there, but the original numbering was 1120, not 1150 like it is today.

     
I was able to trace 1120 Haro back all the way to the 1892 directory which shows it to have been the home of Mrs. L. Francis, her two children, and a relative or perhaps maid named Maud Purvis, the the information on the real estate website was true. I wonder if the VanMap data is based on when water service went in because there were lots of houses in early Vancouver that were built before water was hooked up.



To get details on the other Francis family members listed at the house I went to the names section of the directory.


It showed that Mrs. L. Francis was Mrs. Lizzie Francis, a music teacher. William Francis is listed as a professor of music. The Francis family had moved to the house at 1120 Haro from a house at 1106 Robson.

For some reason there is not 1893 directory so we can only guess who lived in the house that year. By the time the 1894 directory was published Campbell Johnson's family was living there.


Campbell C. R. Johnson was a jack of all trades. The alphabetical section of the directory lists him as a metallurgist, surgeon, assayer and a mining engineer. The only Campbell Johnson listed in the BC Archives Vital Events listings was a miner from Nova Scotia named Charles Campbell Johnson. He seems to have not lived for long in BC as there is no death record for him at the BC Archives.


The 1895 Williams BC Directory lists 1120 Haro as vacant. The 1896 directory lists David Sterling and Samuel Prenter as sharing the house. The directory shows Samuel Prenter as chief timekeeper for the CPR. David Sterling is listed as a clerk for the CPR. David Sterling was Samuel's father-in-law, the father of Samuel's wife, Annie Powell Sterling.


CVA Photo Port P496.1 - Samuel Law Prenter March 5, 1925

Apparently being chief timekeeper of the CPR meant that you were pretty high society in Vancouver because Samuel L. Prenter appears in this group portrait of leading Vancouver citizens at the Vancouver Club  taken in 1920.

CVA Photo Port P1187 - A banquet for leading citizens at the Vancouver Club circa 1920

The group portrait shows Sir Charles Tupper, Frederick Buscombe, E.J. McFeely, Dr. A.S. Monro, Samuel Law Prenter, R. F. Marpole, E.R. Ricketts, J.B. Johnson, R.G. Macpherson, William Ferriman Salsbury, G.C. Tunstall, General J.W. Stewart, Richard Marpole, Robert Kelly, D.E. Brown, C. Gardner Johnson, H.B. Walkem, W.A. Turquand, George E. Macdonald, A. Whealler, J. Elliott, C.E. Meek, Henry Reifel, W.F. Brougham and Colonel E.G. Prior.

The Prenter family only lived at 1120 Haro for a year. The 1897 directory (which sadly lacks a proper street section) finally shows John Rowland Stitt and his family at 1120 Haro.


When John Rowland Stitt and his family moved to 1120 Haro, John had just finished his stint as manager for the Hastings Mill Store. Prior to moving to 1120 Haro, he and his family had been living at a small house on Alexander Street... 502 Alexander Street to be exact.


502 Alexander Street, if you remember, was in the news a lot this past year or so. 

502 Alexander photos courtesy Flickr member SqueakyMarmot via Heritage Vancouver Society

Known as the J. B. Henderson House, it was built sometime in 1888 and was deemed to be the second oldest house still standing in Vancouver. 

1888 Directory listing for J. B. Henderson

1889 Directory listing for J. B. Henderson

The J. B. Henderson House had been bought by Atira Housing Society, and supposedly was to have been restored or at least renovated and integrated into an innovative housing complex that combined the 1913 Dolly Darlington brothel/British Sailors Home at 500 Alexander, and a modern building made of recycled shipping containers. This unfortunately never happened. Incompetant mishandling of the removal of the rear portion of the house  to make way for the containers left the already vulnerable house unstable. Several attempts by people in the neighbourhood to relocate the house were ultimately thwarted by red tape and the city's refusal to help fund the move. 



In the end, despite passionate and well reasoned pleas on the part of Heritage Vancouver Society and other heritage advocates, this historic old East End house, which for a number of years had been the home of Hastings Mill Store manager John Rowland Stitt and his family before he moved to 1120 Haro Street, and which for a while was a brothel run by a madam named Ruth Richards....

1913 directory listing the brothels on the 500 and 600 blocks of Alexander
...and which by 1919 was the home of Japanese-born rice mill proprietor K. A. Tsuchida...


...and which by the late 1930s and early 40s was the home of another James Johnstone, Superintendent of the Vancouver Sailors Home at 500 Alexander, was erased from the map. 


So there you have it... you just never know... I have found that every house has a story to tell. In fact they have many stories to tell, and often these stories have links to the stories of other houses... 

When I take people out on one of my neighbourhood history walks I end up learning just as much from my customers as they do from me. It is a wonderful thing being around and connecting with people who have a passion for Vancouver's history. My scheduled history walks take place every Saturday morning at 10am. Every second Saturday I take tours through Vancouver's oldest and most fascinating neighbourhood, Strathcona, Vancouver's old East End

1890s era Bird's Eye View of Vancouver's East End with the Hastings Sawmill visible near the bottom left hand of the map

Then on the remaining Saturdays I alternate between the West End, Grandview and Mount Pleasant. Click this link for information on my 2014 History Walk Schedule. I also offer private Neighbourhood History Walks for groups of five and over. These walks are now being rated on Trip Advisor, and have been the subject of a fun mini video documentary by Janelle Huopalainen called Time Traveler

And while I am at it, be sure to be on the look out for Lisa Anne Smith's scorching hot new history book, Vancouver Is Ashes which launches on Sunday, May 25th. You won't regret it.


PS: If you are a descendent of John Rowland Stitt and have a scan of a picture of him and other members of his family that you would be willing to share, please contact me using the comments section. 

Cheers!